PVC Framework
PVC pipe is the structural backbone of most home haunt props. It's cheap, lightweight, easy to cut, available everywhere, and connects together with standard fittings. Scarecrow figures, fencing, creature frames, and prop mounting structures all use PVC as their skeleton.
Common Sizes
- 1/2" — Lightweight: fence pickets, small props, detail work
- 3/4" — Most common for figure frames (scarecrows), medium props
- 1" — Larger figures, structural supports, anything tall or heavy
- 1.25"-1.5" — Heavy structural work, giant props, frame bases
Cutting
A PVC pipe cutter ($10 at the hardware store) makes clean, square cuts and is worth owning if you're building multiple props. A hacksaw works too but leaves rough edges that need filing. For bulk cuts, a miter saw with a fine-tooth blade is fastest.
Joining Methods
- Dry fit (no glue) — Just push pipes into fittings. Good for props you want to disassemble for storage. Friction holds reasonably well for static props.
- Self-tapping screws — Drive a screw through the fitting into the pipe for a semi-permanent joint that can still be taken apart. Good for props that need to be strong but also storable.
- PVC cement — Permanent bond. Only use if you never want the joint to come apart. Apply primer first for the strongest bond.
Bending PVC
PVC can be bent into curves by heating it. Use a heat gun (not a torch — you want to soften it, not melt it). Heat the section evenly, rotating the pipe, until it becomes flexible. Bend to shape and hold until cool. This is how you create arm curves, leg bends, and organic shapes in a figure frame.
Painting PVC
PVC doesn't hold paint well without preparation. Lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper, wipe clean, then use spray paint formulated for plastic (like Krylon Fusion). For fencing and visible pipes, see the iron-look painting tips on the cemetery fencing page.