Skeletons & Corpsed Bodies
A bare plastic skeleton from the store looks like a bare plastic skeleton. Corpsing transforms it into something that looks like it actually decomposed. The process involves adding texture, color, and depth over a skeleton form using materials like latex, cotton batting, monster mud, or a combination. The result is a prop that makes people stop and stare.
Corpsing Methods
Method 1: Latex and Cotton
This is the most popular method and produces very realistic results. You'll need liquid latex (available from Amazon or costume shops), cotton batting or cotton balls, and acrylic paint.
- Pull cotton batting into thin, wispy sheets
- Brush liquid latex onto a section of the skeleton
- Press the cotton into the wet latex, stretching it to create skin-like texture
- Brush another layer of latex over the cotton
- Repeat, building up layers. Thicker in some areas, thinner in others for variety
- Let dry completely (latex dries clear and rubbery)
- Paint with acrylic washes — dark brown base, lighter flesh tones, dark recesses
Method 2: Monster Mud
Faster and cheaper than latex, but heavier and less detailed. See the full monster mud recipe and guide. Dip strips of old cotton fabric in monster mud and drape them over the skeleton. Build up layers for a mummified or rotting corpse look.
Method 3: Paper Mache
The cheapest option. See paper mache techniques. Apply strips of newspaper with flour paste over the skeleton. Multiple thin layers with drying time between each. Slower than other methods but costs almost nothing.
Posing the Skeleton
Poseable skeletons (commonly called "Bucky" skeletons, after a popular brand) have joints that hold their position. If yours doesn't, you can fix joints in place with zip ties, screws, or hot glue. Interesting poses make a huge difference — a skeleton slumped against a tombstone or reaching out of the ground is far more effective than one just standing there.
Ground breakers (half-skeletons emerging from the earth) are an easy variation that requires only the upper half of a skeleton and some loose soil or mulch to partially bury it.
Painting
After corpsing, paint in layers following the painting and weathering guide:
- Base wash of dark brown or dark red-brown
- Dry brush lighter tones over raised areas
- Dark washes in recesses and eye sockets
- Thin red or burgundy in areas suggesting dried blood or exposed muscle
- Optional: gloss medium on "wet" looking areas for a fresh-death look
Lighting
Corpsed skeletons look best with warm side lighting or amber/orange uplighting. Avoid bright white light which shows every flaw in the finish.